Solar Security Camera Buying Guide NZ: What Runs Through a Southern Winter

A solar security camera does not fail in January. It fails in July, and by then it has usually been installed for six months and nobody is watching the battery graph any more.

That is the whole problem with this category. Every one of these cameras works when you set it up on a bright weekend in summer. The question that decides whether you bought the right one is what it is doing at 9am on the shortest day, at the bottom of the South Island, under cloud, in its third winter.

This guide covers all 56 solar security cameras in the Securitylab New Zealand range, from a $110 battery camera to a $2,554 professional installation, across both the 4G and the WiFi families. It is organised by power, because power is the constraint that solar buyers are actually solving.

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The Three Numbers That Decide Everything

A solar camera is a tiny power station with a lens attached. Three numbers describe it, and every buying mistake in this category comes from reading one of them and ignoring the other two.

One naming note before the numbers. A solar powered security camera and a solar security camera are the same product, and so is a security camera solar powered. What actually varies between them is not the wording but the three numbers below.

1. What the panel makes

Quoted in watts. A 20W panel is rated at 20W under full, direct, perpendicular sun. It is a ceiling, not an average. What it actually makes on a given day depends on the season, the weather, the shade and the angle it is mounted at, and in a New Zealand winter those four things between them can take a 20W panel down to the output of a 5W one.

2. What the battery holds

Quoted in milliamp hours on the consumer models and amp hours on the professional ones. This is the buffer. It is what carries the camera through the night, and through the run of grey days when the panel makes almost nothing. A big battery behind a small panel gives you a camera that survives a bad fortnight and then never fully recovers. A small battery behind a big panel gives you one that is fine in summer and dies every cloudy night in June.

3. What the camera spends

Almost never quoted, and it is the one that decides the other two. A camera asleep on a PIR sensor draws a fraction of what the same camera draws recording continuously. Add a floodlight, a motorised head that patrols preset points, a 4G radio holding a connection, or laser night vision, and the draw multiplies again.

The single most useful thing to understand about this category: a manufacturer sizes the panel and the battery around an assumed duty cycle. When a $299 camera says "24/7", it is usually describing a mode the camera can enter when the battery is high, not a mode it lives in. When a $2,554 camera says the same words, it means them, and the 100W panel and 120A battery are why.

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The Wattage Ladder

The same ladder applies across both the 4G and the WiFi families, which is why this guide covers them together. Panel size does not care what radio is inside the camera.

But the ladder is not really a ladder of wattage. It is a ladder of what the camera is allowed to do, and the four rungs are behaviours rather than numbers.

• Tier one, motion activated. Small panel, modest battery. Wakes on detection, records the event, sleeps. Self-install, and correct for a gate or a shed door. Around $111 to $370.
• Tier two, continuous above half charge. A similar panel but a much bigger battery, and firmware that records continuously while the pack is high and reverts to motion-triggered when it is not. Around $189 to $768.
• Tier three, true 24/7. Dual panels and a 20000mAh pack. Continuous, and it stays continuous, because it has no lower mode to fall back to. Around $268 to $657.
• Tier four, professional. 60W, 100W or 120W and a battery in amp hours. Enough headroom to run true 4K, long optical zoom and laser night vision continuously. Around $1,091 to $2,559.

The battery decides the behaviour, not the panel

This is the thing that is not on any product page and it explains almost every apparent inconsistency in the range.

Panel wattage refills the battery. Battery capacity is what lets the camera hold a continuous mode at all. Two cameras with the same 6W panel can behave completely differently: VIM-4GSOL12 on 6W with a 12000mAh pack is a motion camera, while VIM-IPSOLAR12 on the same 6W with a 20000mAh pack records continuously while that pack is above half. The panel did not change. The reserve did.

So when you compare two cameras, compare both numbers. A big panel with a small battery is a camera that recovers fast and runs out overnight. A small panel with a big battery is a camera that survives a bad week and then takes a fortnight to come back. The tiers below are sorted by what the pairing actually delivers.

The rule that comes out of the winter maths below: buy one step up the ladder from what the use case suggests. The gap between tiers is usually under $150. The gap between a camera that works in June and one that does not is the whole purchase.

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The New Zealand Winter Correction

Every solar camera in the world is specified against an assumed amount of sun. None of those assumptions were made for a country that runs from 34 to 47 degrees south. Two things change in a New Zealand winter, and the second one is the one that catches people.

There is less daylight

Obvious, and only half the story. Here is what the shortest day actually looks like across the country.

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

So Invercargill loses about an hour of daylight against Kaitaia at the solstice. Meaningful, but on its own it would only cost you around 12 percent.

The sun also sits much lower, and that costs far more

Look at the midday sun height column above. At the June solstice the sun climbs to 30 degrees above the horizon in Auckland and just 20 degrees in Invercargill. In December those same places see it at 77 and 67 degrees.

A solar panel collects in proportion to how squarely the light strikes it. A panel that is close to perpendicular to a high summer sun is close to edge-on to a low winter one, and the loss is not gentle. This is what the same panel, in the same place, on the same day collects at different mounting angles at midday on 21 June.

Three things fall out of that table, and they are worth more than any specification on any product page here.

1. A flat-mounted panel in Invercargill collects about a third of what a correctly angled one does. Not a little less. A third. That single mounting decision is worth more than the difference between a 6W camera and a 20W one.
2. A panel mounted flat against a vertical wall beats a flat horizontal panel everywhere in the country in winter, and south of Christchurch it is within a couple of percent of optimal. If your only options are lying flat or flush against a north-facing wall, take the wall.
3. Tilting for winter costs you about 20 percent in summer, and it does not matter. Summer has surplus. The battery is full by mid-morning either way. Winter is the binding constraint, so aim the panel at the season that can actually run you flat.

Then there is cloud

The tables above are clear-sky midday figures. On a heavily overcast day a panel makes somewhere between a tenth and a quarter of its clear-sky output, and parts of New Zealand deliver those days in runs. The West Coast, Southland and Taranaki can sit under cloud for a fortnight. That is what the battery is for, and it is why battery capacity matters more here than it would in a drier climate.

The practical version: size the panel for the sun angle, size the battery for the cloud. A 20W panel with a 20000mAh pack is a genuinely different instrument from a 20W panel with a 5000mAh one, even though both say 20W on the box.

The other end of the year

New Zealand's peak summer ultraviolet runs around 40 percent higher than at comparable northern hemisphere latitudes, according to NIWA. Excellent for output in January. Hard on everything else: panel encapsulation, cable sheathing, gaskets, adhesive pads and plastic housings all age faster here than the manufacturer's testing assumes. It is a maintenance point rather than a buying one, and it is covered further down.

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Single Panel or Dual Panel

Nine cameras in this range run two panels instead of one. It is treated as a marketing bullet on most product pages and it is actually an engineering decision worth understanding, because it changes the shape of the day rather than the size of the number.

The quoted wattage is always the total

This is the one rule that makes the whole range readable, and no product page states it. Where a dual panel camera says 20W, that is 10W per panel, twice. Not 20W each. VIM-IPSOLAR23 is the only page that spells it out, as "20W (2 x 10W panels)", and every other dual panel camera in the range works the same way: VIM-4GSOL15, VIM-IPSOLAR19, VIM-4GSOL20, VIM-4GSOL20-20W, VIM-4GSOL21-20X, VIM-4GSOL21X36, VIM-IPSOLAR15, VIM-IPSOLAR22, VIM-4GSOL6-20W and VIM-4GSOL14-20W are all 2 x 10W.

The 10W panel is the building block

Which leads somewhere useful. The single 10W panel on VIM-4GSOL19 and each half of a 20W dual array are the same panel. A dual system is not a different class of hardware, it is two of the same module.

So when you compare a 10W single against a 20W dual, you are comparing one panel against two identical panels, and the second one is doing exactly what a second panel does: doubling the collection, letting you aim the pair in two directions, and keeping half the array alive when something shades the other half.

And when you compare a 20W dual against a genuine single 20W panel, they make the same energy at midday on a clear day. What separates them is every other hour and every other condition.

What two panels actually buy you

1. A flatter day. Two panels can face two different directions, one more to the north-east and one more to the north-west. A single panel has one peak at solar noon and falls away either side. A split pair collects earlier and later. In a New Zealand winter, where the peak is low to begin with, spreading the collection across more hours is worth more than a taller peak.
2. Shade tolerance. One panel behind a shed roof at 10am does not take the array down. On a site with a shelter belt, a building or a tree line, this is the strongest argument of the four.
3. Somewhere to put them. A single 20W panel needs one clear span. Two 10W panels fit on a narrow pole, either side of a bracket, or along a fence line. On a cluttered site that is the difference between mounting them properly and mounting them badly.
4. Less sail per panel. Wind load scales with area. Two smaller panels tilted steeply put less leverage on any single fixing than one large one.

Stacked is not the same as split

Two panels bolted together as one plane, on one mount, facing one direction is a stacked pair. It collects exactly like a single panel of the same total wattage, and it exists because two smaller panels are easier to make, ship and lift than one large one. The 100W stacked professional units are built this way.

Two panels on separate mounts, aimed independently, is a split array, and that is where the flatter day and the shade tolerance come from. Most of the consumer dual panel cameras ship with a 5 metre extension lead precisely so the pair can be separated. If you mount both panels side by side on one bracket you have bought a split array and installed it as a stacked one, giving up the main reason to have two.

What a single panel buys you

Simplicity, one cable run, one thing to clean, one thing to re-aim, and at the professional end far more power than any consumer array. Every professional unit here is one plane, and the panels simply get bigger as the wattage rises. On a clear pole with nothing to shade it, one well-aimed panel is the better engineering.

Three ways to build a dual lens camera

Worth separating from the panel question, because "dual" appears in both places and means different things.

Most of the dual lens cameras here put a fixed wide lens on top and a PTZ lens underneath. The top lens never stops recording the whole scene while the bottom one moves, zooms and tracks. VIM-4GSOL10, VIM-4GSOL10X, VIM-4GSOL21-20X, VIM-IPSOLAR15 and VIM-IPSOLAR23 are built this way, and it is the arrangement to buy if you care about having a recording of the rest of the site.

VIM-4GSOL14 and VIM-4GSOL14-20W do it differently. Both lenses sit alongside each other on the PTZ head itself, a telephoto and a wide angle that move together as one unit. That is a hybrid wide-and-zoom camera rather than an overview-plus-detail one: two focal lengths of the same view, instead of two views. Useful when you want to switch between framing a gateway and reading a plate in it. Less useful when you want the yard covered while the camera is looking at the gate.

The third arrangement is VIM-TRIPLECAM-4K with three lenses, which is unusual at $144.

The practical rule: on a clear open site, a single panel of the right wattage aimed properly is the simpler and better answer. On a site with shade, obstructions or nowhere obvious to put a panel, two panels are worth real money. Either way, read the quoted figure as the total and check how many panels it is split across, because 20W across two panels and 20W in one are the same amount of power in two quite different packages.

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Mounting the Panel, Which Matters More Than the Wattage

Nearly every camera here from $177 up ships the panel on a cable, between two and five metres long, and adjustable through 360 degrees. That is not a convenience feature. It is there so the panel does not have to live where the camera lives, and it is the single most under-used feature in the category.

The camera wants to be somewhere useful: three metres up, angled down at a gate, under an eave, in shade. The panel wants to be somewhere completely different: facing north, tilted steeply, out in the open, in full sun. Those two places are rarely the same place, and the cable exists to let them be different.

Five rules

1. Face it north. Not north-east because that is where the bracket pointed. North.
2. Tilt it to your latitude plus 15 degrees, using the last column of the first table. That is roughly 50 degrees in Northland and 61 in Southland. It will look too steep. It is not.
3. Walk the site at 9am and 3pm in winter, not at midday in summer. A shelter belt, a shed roof or a neighbour's hedge that casts no shadow in December will cover the panel for most of a June day, because the sun is 45 degrees lower.
4. Use the cable. Put the camera where the view is and the panel where the sun is. VIM-IPSOLAR7-B and VIM-IPSOLAR17 ship 5 metre leads, VIM-4GSOL13 likewise, and that reach is often the difference between a workable install and a marginal one.
5. Clean it. A panel at a steep angle sheds rain and most dust by itself. A panel lying flat collects pollen, salt film, lichen and bird mess, and a lightly soiled panel can lose a further tenth of its output. Another argument for the steep tilt.

Wind, and the fact that a panel is a sail

A 20W panel is roughly 265 by 175 millimetres. The stacked 100W assembly on VIM-4G40X3S is quoted at 900 by 800. Tilted steeply, on a pole, on an exposed site, that is a significant wind load, and New Zealand has no shortage of exposed sites. Over-engineer the mount, use the bracket the camera was designed for, and on a coastal or Canterbury installation assume the wind will find any weakness in the first year.

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4G or WiFi, and How to Tell Which You Need

Once the power question is settled, this is the only other decision, and it is simpler than it looks. It has nothing to do with the camera and everything to do with the site.

Stand at the mounting point and check your phone. If it holds your own WiFi there, buy a solar WiFi camera. If it does not but it holds cellular signal, buy a solar 4G camera. That is the whole test.

Why WiFi first, where it reaches

A solar WiFi camera joins a network you already pay for. A solar 4G camera carries its own cellular connection and its own monthly data plan, per camera, permanently. Four cameras on a lifestyle block is four SIMs and four bills for as long as you own them. Where WiFi reaches, it costs less to buy and nothing to run, and it streams at full resolution rather than a compressed cellular preview.

Why 4G exists

Because a great many of the sites that have no power also have no network. A paddock, a bush block, a forestry road, a bare section, a construction site before the office goes in. There is nothing to join, so the camera brings its own. All three New Zealand networks completed their 3G shutdown on 31 March 2026, so there is no slower fallback: a 4G camera either has 4G or it has nothing. Test with a phone at the exact mounting point, and remember a camera in a sealed housing on a post sits lower and does worse than a phone in your hand.

The third option most people miss

You can create a network instead of buying into one. VIM-4GSOLR at $333 is a solar 4G router that takes one SIM and turns it into a WiFi hotspot on site, which several ordinary solar WiFi cameras can then share. One data plan instead of four. VIM-WIFISOLR at $222 works from the other direction: a solar WiFi booster that carries the network you already have out to the shed, the gate or the back paddock.

Before buying a third or fourth solar 4G camera, price one of those against the SIMs. It is frequently the cheaper answer and it is almost never the one people arrive at on their own. Both are covered in the 4G security cameras guide and the WiFi security cameras guide.

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Quick Picks

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Tier one: motion activated only

A small panel and a modest battery. The camera sleeps, wakes on detection, records a clip and sleeps again, and that duty cycle is what the power budget can carry. This is the self-install band and it is the right answer for a gate, a shed door, a back fence or anywhere the traffic is occasional. Read any 24/7 claim in this tier sceptically.

The two best selling solar cameras in the range are both here: VIM-4GSOL3 on 4G and VIM-IPSOLAR7 on WiFi. Neither is the most capable camera on the page and that is the point. An 8W panel, a decent battery, PTZ, a floodlight and motion-triggered recording covers what most people actually need from a camera on a shed wall, for under $300, and it does it without ever needing to be thought about again.

What "motion activated" actually means in practice

Not "records whenever something is happening". These cameras record a clip of up to about one minute per trigger, then stop and wait for the next one. That cap is what makes the power budget work, and it is not stated on any product page.

It matters more than it sounds. A person walking through in eight seconds is one clean clip. Somebody working in the frame for ten minutes is a series of clips with gaps between them, and the gaps are wherever the camera decided the motion had stopped. If what you need is a continuous record of a period rather than a record of each arrival, no camera in this tier will give it to you regardless of what its page claims, and you want tier two or three.

Where the one-minute cap is fine, and it usually is: a gate, a driveway, a shed door, a bach, a boundary. You want to know who came and when. That is exactly what this tier does, cheaply, for years, without a cable.

Read the panel column carefully in this tier. A 6W panel behind a 12000mAh pack, aimed properly, will run a low-traffic gate camera through a New Zealand winter without complaint. The same camera on a busy driveway, with the floodlight firing twenty times a night, will not.

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Tier two: continuous above half charge, motion below

The band most buyers miss because it has no name on any product page. These carry a similar panel to tier one but a much larger battery, and the firmware uses it: the camera records continuously while the pack is above roughly 50 percent and drops back to motion-triggered underneath. In a New Zealand summer that is a 24/7 camera. In July it is a motion camera that occasionally does better.

If you are unsure where on the ladder you belong, you belong here, and it is worth understanding exactly what you are buying. These cameras record continuously while the battery is above roughly half, and revert to motion-triggered below it. VIM-IPSOLAR12 and VIM-IPSOLAR12X state that threshold openly on their pages, which is honest, and the rest of the tier behaves the same way.

In practice that means a 24/7 camera from about October to March, and a motion camera through the worst of winter, with the changeover happening on its own as the panel stops keeping up. For most sites that is exactly the right trade, because it costs a fraction of the true 24/7 tier and the months you most want continuous coverage are usually not June and July. If they are, buy tier three.

This is also where the useful features start appearing: optical zoom on VIM-4GSOL3-10X, VIM-4GSOL10X and VIM-IPSOLAR12X, dual lenses on VIM-IPSOLAR21, VIM-4GSOL10 and VIM-4GSOL22, and sirens with red and blue alarm lights on VIM-IPSOLAR7-B.

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Tier three: true 24/7

Dual panels and a 20000mAh pack. This is where continuous recording stops depending on the weather. The camera does not have a lower mode to fall back to because it does not need one.

This is where the dual panel arrays live. Eight of the fourteen entries below split their wattage across two panels, for the reasons set out above. Note again that the split is about mounting and shade, not about doubling the number: VIM-IPSOLAR23 totals 20W across two 10W panels, the same total as the single panel on VIM-IPSOLAR22.

The same camera, twice: what 4G actually costs you

Two of the cameras in this tier exist in both radios. Not similar models. The same camera, built twice, once with a SIM slot and once with WiFi.

Same panels, same battery, same lenses, same zoom, same tracking. The only difference is how the footage gets to your phone.

So the cellular radio costs $89 to $144 up front, and then a data plan every month for as long as you own the camera. Over a three year life that is the purchase price again, and then some.

Which is why the test at the top of this guide is worth taking seriously. If your phone holds your own WiFi at the mounting point and you buy the 4G version anyway, you have paid a premium for a radio you did not need and signed up to a bill for a connection you already have. If it does not hold, that premium is the price of the camera working at all, and it is worth every dollar.

One model family, three cameras

VIM-4GSOL21-20X at $500 and VIM-4GSOL21X36 at $578 are the same camera. Same dual 2K lenses, same dual solar panels, same 20000mAh pack, same 5 metre panel lead, same PTZ head. The only difference is the zoom: 20X on one, 36X on the other, for $78. If you are choosing between them, you are choosing a focal length and nothing else.

The exception that proves the rule: AOV

VIM-4GSOL19 at $445 sits in this tier on a single 10W panel, which by the arithmetic above should not be enough. It manages it because it is the only solar camera in the range running AOV, Always On Video.

The difference is what the camera does between events. An ordinary camera either sleeps and wakes on the PIR sensor, which is cheap but misses the first fraction of a second, or runs a full recording pipeline continuously, which is expensive. AOV holds an efficient always-on encode instead: the sensor never sleeps, the timeline has no gaps, and the power cost sits far below full continuous recording. That is what lets 10W and a 20100mAh pack do what normally takes two panels.

It also brings dual 2K lenses, PTZ and human auto-tracking. If you want a genuinely gapless timeline and only have room for one panel, this is the camera in the range that does it.

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Tier four: professional, round the clock

A different class of installation. 60W, 100W or 120W of panel, batteries quoted in amp hours, and the power headroom to run what the other tiers cannot: true 4K, long optical zoom and laser night vision, continuously, without a site visit.

The professional tier is not one wattage. It is three steps, and the physical panel size confirms each one:

• 60W, panel around 600 x 600mm. VIM-4G76, VIM-4GCAM20X4KS, VIM-4GCAM30X4KS and VIM-4G30X4KS-B, with 60A batteries. The entry point into the professional range, from $1,091.
• 100W, one panel around 800 x 700mm. VIM-4G20XAI on a 70A battery. The auto-tracking unit.
• 100W, and the flagships. VIM-4GCAM30XS on a 70A battery, VIM-4G20X3S, VIM-4G30X3S and VIM-4G40X3S, the last three on 120A batteries. The top of the range, and the only cameras here specified to hold 4K, long optical zoom and laser night vision through a winter without help.

There are two ways of getting to 100W in this tier. VIM-4GCAM30XS uses one large panel. The three 4K units above it use two panels stacked into a 900 by 800mm assembly. Either way the output is the same and the mounting is the same, because a stacked pair behaves as one plane.

Two other things change at this tier. The battery stops being quoted in milliamp hours and starts being quoted in amp hours, which is a thousandfold jump in the unit: a 120A pack holds roughly six times what the largest 20000mAh consumer pack does. And the night vision stops being flood LEDs and becomes laser infrared, a tight beam reaching two to three hundred metres instead of thirty. That pairing is the point, because a 30X or 40X lens can resolve a face at a distance no flood LED will ever light.

Every panel in this tier is a single plane facing one direction, whether it is one sheet or two bolted together. The 900 by 800mm 100W assemblies are stacked pairs, and stacked is not the same as split: the pair sits on one mount facing one way, so it behaves exactly like a single 100W panel rather than like the two-direction arrays on the consumer models. Stacking is a manufacturing and handling decision, not a collection-angle one.

That matters for the install. A 900 by 800mm assembly at a 55 degree tilt on a pole is a serious wind load, and it wants a pole and bracket rated for it rather than whatever was already on site.

VIM-4GSTREETCAM at $2,115 is the odd one out and worth knowing about. It is a street light with a camera in it, on a 513Wh lithium pack, for sites that need lighting and surveillance from one pole and one install.

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What Fails, and When

This is the part no product page covers, and it is what separates a camera that is still working in its fourth winter from one that quietly stopped in its second.

Year one: the mount and the seals

Anything that was going to work loose in the wind does it in the first year. Check the bracket bolts, the panel tilt, and the cable entry glands after the first proper storm. On a coastal site, look for salt film on the panel and the first signs of corrosion on any fixing that is not stainless.

Years two and three: the battery

Lithium cells lose capacity with cycles and with heat, and a camera on a north-facing wall in a New Zealand summer gets plenty of both. Expect a pack to hold noticeably less by its third year. This is the real reason to buy one step up the ladder: a camera sized exactly to its job on day one has no margin left when the battery has aged, and the failure shows up in winter, when there is no margin anywhere else either.

Years three and up: the panel surface

UV degrades the encapsulation over the panel cells, and New Zealand delivers more of it than most places. The output falls slowly rather than suddenly. A panel that was marginal on day one becomes inadequate; a panel that was generous stays adequate.

What this means at the point of purchase

Size for the worst week of the third winter, not the best day of the first summer. In practice that is the same advice as buying one step up the ladder, but it is worth understanding why, because it is the difference between a camera that needs replacing in three years and one that does not.

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Mistakes That Cause Returns

Mounting the panel where it looks tidy

Flat under an eave, flush on an east wall, or wherever the bracket happened to point. The table above puts a number on what that costs: down to a third of the available output. This is the single biggest mistake in the category and it is free to avoid.

Reading "24/7" as continuous on a 6W panel

Below about 20W, continuous recording usually means continuous while the battery is high. Read the power mode line rather than the headline.

Judging the install in summer

A camera commissioned in January looks perfect. Commission it, then go back and check the battery level in the app in late June before you consider the job finished.

Buying solar when there was power available

Solar exists to solve the absence of power, and it pays for that in resolution per dollar and in motion-only recording. If there is an outlet at the mounting point, a mains camera gives you more camera for the money and never needs a battery. The WiFi cameras guide covers the mains range.

Buying 4G when the site has WiFi

A monthly plan per camera, forever, for a connection you already have.

Ignoring shade at the low sun angle

Walk the site in winter light. Something that casts no shadow in December will sit over the panel for most of a June day.

Forgetting the card

Almost nothing here includes a microSD card, and limits vary from 64GB to 256GB. Buy a high-endurance card built for continuous rewriting; standard cards fail early under loop recording. Memory cards are stocked separately.

Leaving the default password

A camera holding footage of identifiable people is personal information on your network. Change the password at setup and apply firmware updates. Principle 5 of the Privacy Act 2020 requires reasonable security safeguards.

Mounting too low

Two and a half to three metres, angled down, keeps the camera out of reach and still puts faces in frame. It also puts a solar camera out of reach of the person who would otherwise walk off with it.

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Key Specs Explained

Panel wattage

The rated output under full perpendicular sun. A ceiling, not an average. Seasonal angle, cloud and shade all reduce it, and in a New Zealand winter they can reduce it a very long way.

Battery capacity, mAh and Ah

Milliamp hours on consumer models, amp hours on professional ones. 20000mAh is 20Ah, so a 120A professional battery holds roughly six times what the largest consumer pack does. Capacity is your cloud buffer.

18650 and 21700 cells

Standard cylindrical lithium cell sizes, named for their dimensions in millimetres. A 21700 is physically larger and holds more, which is why the newer continuous models such as VIM-IPSOLAR19 and VIM-IPSOLAR23 use six of them.

Duty cycle

How much of the time the camera is actually awake and recording. Motion-triggered is a low duty cycle and a small panel can carry it. Continuous is a high one and needs 20W and up.

PIR and radar detection

PIR reads moving heat and struggles when the air approaches body temperature. Radar reads motion regardless of heat, reaches further and works through rain, but triggers on vegetation. A camera carrying both can require agreement before waking, which cuts false triggers and saves battery, and on a solar camera every avoided wake is power kept.

Optical, digital and hybrid zoom

Optical moves lens elements and keeps full detail. Digital crops and enlarges, adding nothing. Hybrid is a stated combination and only the optical portion does real work.

Laser infrared

A tight infrared beam rather than a spread of LEDs. Flood LEDs give out around 30 to 50 metres. Laser illumination reaches 150 to 300 metres, which is what makes long optical zoom usable after dark.

IP ratings

First digit dust, second digit water. IP65 is dust-tight and resists jets, IP66 resists powerful jets, IP67 adds temporary immersion. On an exposed, coastal or windy New Zealand site, IP66 or better.

Single lens and dual lens

A single PTZ camera is blind to the rest of the site whenever it is zoomed in or turned away, and the recording of the rest of the site does not exist. A dual lens camera keeps a fixed wide view recording while the second lens moves.

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Choose by Site

Suburban back fence or side gate

Low traffic, WiFi from the house usually reaches. VIM-IPSOLAR18 or VIM-IPSOLAR17 at the entry tier, or VIM-IPSOLAR7 if you want the extra headroom. Keep the field of view inside your boundary.

Detached garage, sleepout or shed on the same section

Test WiFi at the wall first. If it holds, VIM-IPSOLAR7 or VIM-IPSOLAR21. If it does not, a WiFi booster is cheaper than moving to 4G.

Lifestyle block

House connected, everything else not. Price a solar router or booster against multiple SIMs before buying a second 4G camera. Then VIM-IPSOLAR23 on the sheds and VIM-IPSOLAR15 where you need to identify someone at the gate.

Farm or remote paddock

No power, no network, long distances, and site visits are expensive. This is the case 4G was built for. VIM-4GSOL21X36 for a serious boundary camera, VIM-4GSOL19 or VIM-4GSOL15 for continuous coverage of a yard, and the professional tier where the install has to run untouched.

Construction site

Empty overnight, high value, and the site changes shape as work progresses, so the camera needs to be repositionable. VIM-4GSOL3-2K or VIM-4GSOL17 through a short build, VIM-4G74 or VIM-4G20XAI where the project runs over a winter. Sirens and red and blue alarm lights do real deterrent work on an empty site.

Holiday home or bach

Unoccupied for months, so the camera has to survive without anyone to charge it. Battery capacity matters more than panel size here, because nobody is going to notice a flat camera until they arrive. VIM-4GSOL15 or VIM-IPSOLAR19 depending on whether the place has a connection.

Coastal or high wind site

IP66 minimum, stainless fixings, an over-engineered mount, and a panel washed occasionally to clear salt film. Wind loading on a tilted panel is the failure most people do not plan for.

Deep south

Below about 44 degrees, buy a step up the ladder and tilt the panel to 60 degrees. The daylight is only an hour shorter than Northland but the sun is 10 degrees lower, and the second number costs more than the first.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Will a solar security camera work through a New Zealand winter?

Yes, if the panel faces north, is tilted to roughly your latitude plus 15 degrees, and is clear of winter shade. Those three things matter more than the wattage on the box. If any of them cannot be met, buy a step up the ladder.

How much solar do I actually need?

5W to 9W for motion-triggered recording, 10W to 20W for genuine continuous, and 60W, 100W or 120W for professional cameras with long zoom and laser night vision. In New Zealand, buy one step above what the use case suggests.

Is a dual panel camera twice as powerful as a single panel one?

No. The quoted wattage is always the total. A dual panel camera rated 20W is carrying two 10W panels, not two 20W ones, and the 10W panel is the same module used singly on VIM-4GSOL19. Read the figure as the total and then check how it is split.

So why buy a dual panel camera at all?

Because two panels can face two different directions, which collects earlier and later in the day rather than peaking harder at noon, and because one shaded panel does not take out the whole array. On a clear open site a single well-aimed panel is simpler and just as good. On a site with a shelter belt, a shed or a tree line, the split array is worth real money.

How much solar do the professional cameras have?

Three steps, and the panel size confirms each. 60W on a panel around 600 x 600mm with a 60A battery, 100W on around 800 x 700mm with a 70A battery, and a stacked 100W pair on around 900 x 800mm with a 120A battery. The first two are single panel, all mounted on a pole.

Does it need direct sunlight?

It charges in overcast conditions, at roughly a tenth to a quarter of clear-sky output. That is what the battery is sized for. What it cannot tolerate is shade sitting across the panel for hours every day.

What angle should the panel be at?

Your latitude plus about 15 degrees, facing north. Roughly 50 degrees in Northland, 56 in Wellington, 61 in Southland. It will look steeper than seems right, and that is correct.

Can I mount the panel flat on a wall?

Yes, and in winter it beats lying flat everywhere in the country. South of Christchurch a vertical north-facing wall is within a couple of percent of the ideal angle at midwinter.

Can it really record 24/7?

It depends which of three things the camera is doing. Tier one records events only. Tier two records continuously while the battery is above roughly half and reverts to motion-triggered below it, which in practice means continuous through summer and motion-triggered through the worst of winter. Tier three and tier four record continuously, full stop.

What is AOV?

Always On Video. The sensor never sleeps and the timeline has no gaps, using an efficient always-on encode that costs far less power than full continuous recording. VIM-4GSOL19 is the only solar camera in the range with it, which is how it manages a gapless timeline on a single 10W panel.

Two cameras have the same 6W panel. Why do they behave differently?

Because the battery is the other half of the equation. The panel refills the pack; the pack is what lets the camera hold a continuous mode. A 6W panel with a 12000mAh battery is a motion camera. The same 6W panel with a 20000mAh battery records continuously while that pack is high. Compare both numbers, never just the wattage.

Do I need 4G or WiFi?

Stand at the mounting point. If your phone holds your own WiFi there, buy WiFi. If not but it holds cellular, buy 4G. WiFi costs nothing per month; 4G costs a data plan per camera.

Do 4G cameras need a SIM, and does each one need its own?

Yes to both, unless you use a solar 4G router to create a hotspot that several WiFi cameras share. Before a third or fourth 4G camera, price that alternative.

Will a 4G camera work where my phone has one bar?

Possibly not. A camera sits lower, in a sealed housing, on a post. Test at the exact mounting point, and note that since the 3G shutdown completed on 31 March 2026 there is no slower fallback to drop to.

How long does the battery last before it needs replacing?

Expect noticeable capacity loss by the third year, which is normal for lithium cells and accelerated by heat. Buying one step up the ladder is how you keep margin for that.

What happens if the camera runs flat?

It stops recording until the panel brings it back. On most models you can also charge it over its USB or DC input, which is worth knowing before winter rather than during it.

Can someone just steal the camera?

Yes, which is why cloud storage matters more on a solar camera than a wired one: footage already uploaded survives the camera being taken. Mount high, use the camouflage housings where they suit, and consider a siren model so removal is not quiet.

Do these need a memory card?

Almost all of them, and almost none include one. Check the limit for the specific camera and buy a high-endurance card.

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Responsible Use in New Zealand

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Related Guides

This guide answers the power question. The guides below answer the others.

• 4G security cameras buying guide for the full 4G range including mains and mini models, and the solar 4G router.
• WiFi security cameras buying guide for the full WiFi range including mains cameras, indoor cameras and the solar WiFi booster.
• Security camera systems buying guide for multi-camera solar packages, hubs and recorders.
• Trail camera buying guide for solar wildlife and property cameras built around long unattended deployment.
• GPS tracker buying guide for tracking machinery and vehicles on the same remote sites these cameras watch.
• Night vision optics buying guide for hand-held thermal and night vision, and the New Zealand rules on where they can be used.

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Shop the Range

• 4G security cameras
• WiFi security cameras
• Security camera systems
• Solar trail cameras
• Memory cards

Last reviewed August 2026.